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Buying second hand equipment is good for the wallet. Objects are, if in good state, comparable with new ones. But how do you see if a used photographic item is in the right condition? Does it have hidden defects?
This article helps you to determine if photo equipment is ok to buy.
Rules of thumb when buying second hand photo equipment
One, investigate
View online stores to find out the average marketprice. So you will know more about the equipment price and you will not pay too much. Also write down the state the object is in, since this influences the price. Check second-hand prices at retailers second hand section. You will know what is too much for an object.
Two, take your time
Always take your time when buying second hand gear. If you buy quick, the risk of buying defective equipment is big.
- Also buying quickly means paying more.
- Selling quick means getting less.
So remember that that desperate sellers do accept less money for their object.
Three, inspect it
Look at the object. Does it show marks, deep scratches, much wear of use. If so, you might want to let this one go. It's maybe used professionally or abused. You might encounter high repair costs in the near future. If its a body open the body back and inspect the curtain. See if it has damages. Also look at the door seals to make sure the back is closed the way it should be. Check the light meter, the body might have corrosion (due to water or leaking batteries) which affects the electronics.
Four, test it
If the object looks fine, test the object yourself. Not every salesman/woman is honest, so try every setting possible. Read the manual, or even better download it from the internet so you know the object settings and options beforehand.
Five, use it
If you buy a body, use it, shoot a roll or two with your favourite film. Develop in a one hour shop and look at the results. A defective body shows its defects on the picture. Attach a flash onto the body and test the camera flash function. Also (if present) test the camera internal flash.
Six, Negotiate
Think beforehand what the maximum price is that you want to pay. Don't pay more than you wanted initially. Don't believe the story: There are more interested buyers. If so, bad luck.
Buying lenses
All six above rules apply to buying lenses, however I will provide some extra tips.
Seven, General impression
I don't have to explain that a lens that looks like sour pipe probably is used often without care and might not work nice and smooth. So picking up the lens and looking at it give you a first impression. If the lens looks like new it does NOT mean it is OK. Maybe the lens is usered rare, but is malfunction anyway. So don't pull you wallet when you see the lens you always wanted, but inspect it!
Eight, look at the glass
Investigate the glass completely to find scratches, pits etc. Also look for coating damages. Look at the front and back of the lens. Basically look for every damage possible since the glass "IS" the lens.
Nine, Fungus
Fungus inspection will show if there is any fungus, rubble or other unwanted objects in or on the lens. Hold the lens into the (not to bright) light, set the aperture on the lowest number i.e. 2.8 and look through the lens while tilting it a little bit. Look for little spots on the glass or thin threads on the edges (they could be in the middle too). Don't buy the lens if it has fungus inside unless you know what you are doing.
Ten, Zoom function
Some push pull zoom lenses zoom loosen due to the years of use. Check if this is the case. Lenses with a loose zoom mechanism will zoom automatically when you point them up or down. This is not convenient. The zoom function should be smooth and silent. A scratchy noise could mean that there is sand or rubble between the lens components and you might decide to let this one go.
Eleven, Focus movement
Try the focus movement, it shoud be smooth en silent with manual focus lenses en loose with autofocus lenses. Listen to "noise" when focussing. If it does not sound right, the lens might be dirty and "infected" with corrosion, sand or rubble. Cleaning might be an option, but remember that plastic lenses are once "infected" with corrosion, sand or rubble hard to repair. They probably will not be that what you expect of it.
Twelve, Aperture
Check if the aperture blades are free from grease/oil. Look at the aperture blades and push the aperture handle at the back of the lens, the blades should move fast. Damaged or blades with oil on it will not move smooth and quick.
Thirteen, Focusing
Check if the focus mechanism works fine by focusing the lens to an object near the minimum focus distance. Do the same thing for the infinity setting. For an autofocus lens check the autofocus function. Also set the lens on manual and check the aperture setting manually (if present) see if the camera detects the aperture setting in manual mode.
Fourteen, Filter thread
Check the filter thread for bumps or other damage. If damaged you might not be able to mount a filter on this lens. And, maybe it has been dropped of bumbed and has invisible damages inside.
Fifteen, Lens mount
Check the lens mount for damages and wear of use. If it shows much wear of use the lens might be used (swapped) much.
Sixteen, Flashes
Most newer lenses communicate with the body and exchange the focal lenght the lens is set to. A flash will adjust its flash angle according this focal setting. Try this and see if the flash reponds correctly. If that does not work, the lens might be infected wit corrosion, or has and electronic fault. This applies only if you use a flash.If you never use a flash, you might not care. |
